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Topic: [OFF-TOPIC] From: EAC rips consistently differ in last track (Read 1561 times) previous topic - next topic
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[OFF-TOPIC] From: EAC rips consistently differ in last track

Wow! That was an extensive explanation from mjb 2006. I am not so into the deep inner space of software etc but isn’t beautiful reading, to read someone’s pure technical notes.
Here are some comments from me, if they are of any use:

I have set my EAC to stop ripping when it finds are sync and/or reading problems to save a lot of time if I go for a scratched CD that fails. It seems, according to mjb 2006 that this isn’t the same stuff as when you got #’s that I get on the last track when it so often is missing.
Your settings show that this players does not support C2 errors or that you haven’t checked whether this feature is eligible. A C2 error is a faulty piece of data information that the player by logic can give a correct output. There are C1 errors, C2 and CU which I assume means Unrecoverable. The pick-up correction is done via a method similar to triangulation, or as if you look at a dice; the opposites always make 7, a kind of checksum. C2 however ought to be purely software logical.

If you follow my notes you will gather some useful information. I have collected my reminiscences + some similar info. 
You have not shown whether the players reading instructions are set. It should be D8, MMC1 e.g. and is automatically set when clicking on it.

[Usually you can overcome a blank on the last track by changing the CD-players ripping method from Secure to Burst and you may get a #, but that track won’t be found in the same m3u-list (I suppose, and it will delete the main list and make one with this single track).]
Otherwise this feature was often showed, or as often as practically always on a CD-R, in Nero’s earliest CD-test (together with Nero 4?), as a red sector in the end of Scan Disc. That was when each sector was a larger square than in later versions (viz. a v4 w/ Nero 7).
I would not trust the initial testing when the program is installed and then just leave it as ‘for experts only’ but plunge into the settings and all that stuff, but there’s a lot there to go through! It seems that you only have the default settings on.
I have also found that blotches on the last track happens frequently with many of my CD and DVD players, so I try to sort them out. Which brands and models are best is hard to know but I have found that Plextor’s better models are consistently way above the average (as if this where a commercial). However, once in a while some obscured other brand shows to be prime quality or, I even have a certain HL-DT ST-DVD-ROM GDR8162B 0015 that gives marginally better results than my Plextor Premium! And that’s not bad. But the next HL player did not make the mark.
Some USB-encased players seem to tire quickly, after say ripped 5 CD’s. One such player is the Plextor PX-708A. Possibly it works faultlessly inside a computer?
Note also that doing the tests correctly is very important. The Premium e.g. ought to have Cache unchecked, but if you have done the test in a working computer it seems you might get a faulty result, that it does cache sound data and the difference in reading results is big. Just now I also found that if you start EAC while CUE Ripper is running (now passive) on the specific player (here: the Premium), EAC will check the box for ‘Cache’s sound data’. Wherefore one might well wonder whether or not CUE Ripper has got this item right, but the specific player should not have shown in EAC…
It would be nice to see a list over the most qualified players. It’s a jungle of brands and strange models such as the mentioned HL above but also, the manufacturing of e.g. a Plextor was (because they don’t do them anymore) by (a number of?) entrepreneurs, such as Pioneer.  Most brands seem to be impossible to judge by the cover and then there are models such as Sony Optiarc… is there something special with it? Over average perhaps but with massive timing problems or have I missed something? Does not the name imply that it is good or very special? A Philips DVD player that looked very professional turned out to be a complete failure and so bad that I got my money back! But when I read your pm I think that it might be possible to get better last-track results if there is software solution? (Just a guess).
Over the years none of my players seem to be ageing but mistakes in the settings when reinstalling seems to explain suspicious behavior. However, allow some cooling time.


Me.